PRINT: Rock Climb Unknown Chimney, Red River Gorge

Unknown Chimney

5.8, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.1 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Phantasia

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way. Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.

Location

Large crack in wall located 18' left of Overlord (5.10b sport)
(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)

Protection

0.3-4 cams, small ledge down low can take gear to protect chimney without huge protection. Was able to save my #4 until the second placement. Crux hand jams takes a super solid #2. No anchors. Down climb to left and rappel from tree on ledge as one option. Was able to build gear anchor and top rope, then traverse right on a few pieces, and rap off anchors above Overlord.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Trogdor's Crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dustin Stephens

Definitely not an FA, poor form to retro-name and claim FA's on obvious lines at old crags. redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui… Jun 6, 2017

Scott Baird
Hagerstown, MD

5.8

My bad. I'll be happy to update with info from the link you provided. I couldn't find any information from books at my disposal. Nor was I able to find online. Also, I was breaking off so much stuff that it was hard to imagine anyone else had climbed it. I'm not trying to steal anyone else's thunder. Jun 7, 2017

Scott Baird
Hagerstown, MD

5.8

Actually, this climb is not You Got Served, but from the comments, it definitely sounds like this line has been climbed before. I'll see what I can do to get info from anyone who may know. Jun 7, 2017

Ansel Higgs
Graz

5.7 PG13

Bottom is sandy af and hollow, no good gear until half up. Gear anchor of 0.75 1 2 leaves master point a bit low for people to TR through crux Mar 21, 2018

Nolan Buland
Kentucky

To start, everyone's risk tolerance and risk assessment methods are highly individualized. People are going to weigh the dangers of any given climb differently, and that's completely valid.

With that said, this route is outside my risk tolerance. I made it about 15 feet up before deciding to bail. The rock was actively falling apart, with football-sized chunks breaking off with every move. This wasn't just a thin layer of surface sand the rock quality itself was genuinely terrible. Honestly some of the worst I've come across in the gorge. I can't say whether it's always been this way, but it felt completely unmanageable for me. Apr 19, 2026