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Unknown Chimney
5.8,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
FA: unknown
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Phantasia
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r… Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way. Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.
Location
Large crack in wall located 18' left of Overlord (5.10b sport)
(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)
Protection
0.3-4 cams, small ledge down low can take gear to protect chimney without huge protection. Was able to save my #4 until the second placement. Crux hand jams takes a super solid #2. No anchors. Down climb to left and rappel from tree on ledge as one option. Was able to build gear anchor and top rope, then traverse right on a few pieces, and rap off anchors above Overlord.
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Hagerstown, MD
Hagerstown, MD
Graz