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Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 197 total, 35/month
Shared By: Scott Baird on Jun 6, 2017
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way. Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.

Location

Large crack in wall located 18' left of Overlord (5.10b sport)
(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)

Protection

0.3-4 cams, small ledge down low can take gear to protect chimney without huge protection. Was able to save my #4 until the second placement. Crux hand jams takes a super solid #2. No anchors. Down climb to left and rappel from tree on ledge as one option. Was able to build gear anchor and top rope, then traverse right on a few pieces, and rap off anchors above Overlord.

Photos

Scott Baird
Hagerstown, MD
 
Scott Baird   Hagerstown, MD
 
Actually, this climb is not You Got Served, but from the comments, it definitely sounds like this line has been climbed before. I'll see what I can do to get info from anyone who may know. Jun 7, 2017
Scott Baird
Hagerstown, MD
 
Scott Baird   Hagerstown, MD
 
My bad. I'll be happy to update with info from the link you provided. I couldn't find any information from books at my disposal. Nor was I able to find online. Also, I was breaking off so much stuff that it was hard to imagine anyone else had climbed it. I'm not trying to steal anyone else's thunder. Jun 7, 2017
Definitely not an FA, poor form to retro-name and claim FA's on obvious lines at old crags. redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui… Jun 6, 2017