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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon
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Analog V8-9 7B+ |
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Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chitty Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Digital (aka Sector 54?) V6 7A |
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Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make A Dead Man Cum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Moonrise Variation (Moontide?) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moontide T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turtle Rock Summit Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 904 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Jun 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
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Description
If you've hiked out to climb Straight and Narrow, Drain Pipe offers two more pitches for your effort, but if you're in the market for a casual 5.6 multipitch, look elsewhere. Both pitches felt harder than advertised and would make a 5.6 leader unhappy.
P1. Climb a hand crack in a shallow chimney, following it as it traverses left into a deeper chimney halfway up the pitch. This second flaring chimney climbs like an offwidth and ends on a big ledge. At the time of my ascent, there was a rap anchor here (cordalette around a horn).
P2. Move left on the ledge so you're in the corner system above Straight and Narrow. Climb the easy, tightening chimney until it gets too narrow to fit in. Next comes the hard part: getting out of it. Here you're forced to climb out and around a bulge in the now #5 crack. My partner was able to overcome it with wide stemming, but I was too short and resorted to ugly, flailing, desperate offwidthing.
The second pitch can also be accessed by climbing Straight and Narrow and veering right into the chimney at the top just before the anchor.
For a more pleasant outing, consider the Drainpipe Left Exit variation. The 5.9 crux is brief and well protected and the rest of the pitch is significantly easier.
Kelmen's guidebook calls this a 5.4, the hardest 5.4 on record? Even at 5.6 as listed in the Orenczak/Lynn guidebook, this thing seemed like quite a sandbag.
P1. Climb a hand crack in a shallow chimney, following it as it traverses left into a deeper chimney halfway up the pitch. This second flaring chimney climbs like an offwidth and ends on a big ledge. At the time of my ascent, there was a rap anchor here (cordalette around a horn).
P2. Move left on the ledge so you're in the corner system above Straight and Narrow. Climb the easy, tightening chimney until it gets too narrow to fit in. Next comes the hard part: getting out of it. Here you're forced to climb out and around a bulge in the now #5 crack. My partner was able to overcome it with wide stemming, but I was too short and resorted to ugly, flailing, desperate offwidthing.
The second pitch can also be accessed by climbing Straight and Narrow and veering right into the chimney at the top just before the anchor.
For a more pleasant outing, consider the Drainpipe Left Exit variation. The 5.9 crux is brief and well protected and the rest of the pitch is significantly easier.
Kelmen's guidebook calls this a 5.4, the hardest 5.4 on record? Even at 5.6 as listed in the Orenczak/Lynn guidebook, this thing seemed like quite a sandbag.
Location
The obvious chimney system that starts just right of Straight and Narrow. The descent is short and easy: walk off east.
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