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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon

Analog V8-9 7B+
Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Digital V6 7A
Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Moonrise Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 144 total, 26/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Jun 5, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

If you've hiked out to climb Straight and Narrow, Drain Pipe offers two more pitches for your effort, but if you're in the market for a casual 5.6 multipitch, look elsewhere. Both pitches felt harder than advertised and would make a 5.6 leader unhappy.

P1. Climb a hand crack in a shallow chimney, following it as it traverses left into a deeper chimney halfway up the pitch. This second flaring chimney climbs like an offwidth and ends on a big ledge. At the time of my ascent, there was a rap anchor here (cordalette around a horn).

P2. Move left on the ledge so you're in the corner system above Straight and Narrow. Climb the easy, tightening chimney until it gets too narrow to fit in. Next comes the hard part: getting out of it. Here you're forced to climb out and around a bulge in the now #5 crack. My partner was able to overcome it with wide stemming, but I was too short and resorted to ugly, flailing, desperate offwidthing.

Kelmen's guidebook calls this a 5.4, the hardest 5.4 on record? Even at 5.6 as listed in the Orenczak/Lynn guidebook, this thing seemed like quite a sandbag.

Location

The obvious chimney system that starts just right of Straight and Narrow. The descent is short and easy: walk off east.

Protection

A standard rack to a BD #5. The #5 is useful on both pitches. Don't expect any fixed anchors, though you may find a rappel sling on the ledge atop the first pitch.

Photos

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