Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jesse Brown
Page Views: 247 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jake Dickerson on Jun 5, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

EDIT: Anchors have been added below the bulge making it 11c or so.

3 star climbing to a WTF finish. Start on two sick mono's and bust up the face with big moves on incut 2 and 3 finger pockets. Continue up the amazing clean line of pockets to a horizontal break which is unfortunately covered in bat poop. Rest up, fire a few steep moves, then grab your draw in frustration as the holds vanish. There is a fixed quick link on the last bolt which I happily lowered off. I honestly have no idea how to get to the chains, perhaps a hold broke? Or the more likely scenario is that I'm a weenie.

Location

The right most side of the heavy metal sector. When the main trail hits the cliff, follow the trail right past the "easy listening slab" and a section with no routes. You will come to a clean white sector with 3 bolted routes, this is the right most one.

Protection

9 Bolts

Photos

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Matt Enlow
Wyoming
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
Awesome, glad i'm not the only person who was convinced something's missing from the end. Likewise lowered off the last bolt, don't see any way to get to the anchors - even locking off on the last draw no holds could be found.

Was really good climbing up til then, although there's some crumble off to the right. The crumbles definitely support the broken hold theory... Jul 21, 2017
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
 
This route should have anchors below the bulge in my opinion as it would be a classic mid 11.... The climbing above there is worthless. Seems as though many people try this route and lower off the quick link nearly every time. Just because the anchors are up there doesn't mean they should be. Aug 2, 2017
Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady   Lander, WY
 
Proper anchor added at the bulge. Very fun 11c or so to there. I call the shortened version Still Sand Bagging. Sep 10, 2018
Was the F.A. party contacted? If not, the fact that these anchors were "possibly" added without contacting the F.A. party is not proper. The crux is going to the anchor, figure it out. If you can't, then pick one of the other 100+ 5.12b routes in the canyon to have a crack at. I hate to see routes that aren't dangerous changed because someone can't figure them out. Nov 14, 2018
I have to agree with Mr. White on this one. You shouldn't put in an intermediate anchor on an established route. Achin' for Bootie is a good 5.9 up until it gets steep. Casual Entertainment is a great 5.10 to the jugs before the last bulge. Bronc Twister is a good 13a up to the last bolt (where it gets impossible!) Almost all the routes on the Strawberry Roan wall are 5.12 to the cap rock. I could go on, but you can see the argument. I hope this does not become common place in Lander. Nov 14, 2018
Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady   Lander, WY
 
Sounds good pull those new rings right off if they violate your ethics. The holes are deep enough that you can pull the hangers and pound the bolts in flat. Maybe give a try before pulling them in the event that something broke and the issue is that the new line takes a different path? It will not bother me I was just trying to make it a line worth climbing and be transparent as to what happened and why.

To clarify as there seems to be some confusion - all of the original hardware placed by Jesse Brown has been unaltered and lower anchors were only added to one route at an obscure wall for specific reasons based on a reasonable consensus.

Thanks for the additional feedback. Nov 14, 2018