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Routes in Hobbit Caves

1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
2 S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calcaneous S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goblin, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gollum S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mordor S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Samsquanch S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secret Stairs TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tools are for Fools TR M5+
Yeti, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Unice
Page Views: 197 total · 12/month
Shared By: Scott Unice on Jun 5, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Just Right of "tools for fools" follow a bolt line up the arete. Start on the arete then move left to the third bolt. This bolt was placed there because it was the best quality rock unfortunately it makes it a little bit tricky to clip. You can use the arete and stem left to get the 3rd bolt. Above the 3rd bolt move up and right on some good holds to bolt 4 (crux) Then follow the bolt line to the top crossing "tools" access to Yeti's anchors. Continue up the arete following the bolt line to top out were you will be greeted by two chain anchor. Need more input on the rating but I felt 5.10b/c was a good start. You can also access this by climbing Yeti. At Yeti's chains move left to join the upper 2 bolt section of Golum. From there you can top rope Goblin or Golum. If you plan to top rope use the 4th bolt as a directional.


Find the Goblin Then on that same face way Right just beyond Tools for fools is an arete. Around the arete is Yeti, Gollum follows the arete with the exception of bolt 2 and 3 which you come back on to the face. All bolts can be clipped by using the arete and a stem. You have options on how you want to do this route with similar difficulty.


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