Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches
FA: Jack Delk, Guy McClure (1976)
Page Views: 899 total · 11/month
Shared By: Cory B on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Have you done Wingfeather? Feel like climbing another moderate multi-pitch excursion? This is a good option. There are no bolts, fixed anchors or other blemishes. Just a pure, moderate trad climb.

P1 - climb the easy crack to the big ledge. (low 5th)
P2 - Climb the crack to the right of the diherdal. Alternate back and forth from this crack to the dihedral where appropriate (5.8). Belay at the tope of an obvious ledge. P1+2 can be combined, but why bother?
P3 - Continue up the dihedral, place gear above the dihedral (5.8), the difficulty eases (5.6) and cruz to a nice ledge and set up another gear belay.
P4 - The guide book says to traverse, but we kept going straight up, and belayed at the base of a headwall (5.6)
P5 - The guidebook says go left to a corner, but it was full of algae, so we went straight up the headwall. A few moves of 5.9(?), then cruz to the top (4th class)!.

Rap down the partially bolted line next to Triple Dihedral with 2 ropes, or walk off (not recommend)

Location Suggest change

You can't miss it. Climb the obvious set of dihedrals a bit past the big red dihedral, that split the Red Eagle wall.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack to 3"

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