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Routes in Red Eagle

Triple Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wham Bam Thank You Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jack Delk, Guy McClure (1976)
Page Views: 166 total, 26/month
Shared By: C Brooks on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Have you done Wingfeather? Feel like climbing another moderate multi-pitch excursion? This is a good option. There are no bolts, fixed anchors or other blemishes. Just a pure, moderate trad climb.

P1 - climb the easy crack to the big ledge. (low 5th)
P2 - Climb the crack to the right of the diherdal. Alternate back and forth from this crack to the dihedral where appropriate (5.8). Belay at the tope of an obvious ledge. P1+2 can be combined, but why bother?
P3 - Continue up the dihedral, place gear above the dihedral (5.8), the difficulty eases (5.6) and cruz to a nice ledge and set up another gear belay.
P4 - The guide book says to traverse, but we kept going straight up, and belayed at the base of a headwall (5.6)
P5 - The guidebook says go left to a corner, but it was full of algae, so we went straight up the headwall. A few moves of 5.9(?), then cruz to the top (4th class)!.

Rap down the partially bolted line next to Triple Dihedral with 2 ropes, or walk off (not recommend)

Location

You can't miss it. Climb the obvious set of dihedrals a bit past the big red dihedral, that split the Red Eagle wall.

Protection

Double rack to 3"

Photos

Andrew Fahrland
Denver, CO
Andrew Fahrland   Denver, CO
This route follows a striking line, but we bailed after the first (approach) pitch. The crack and corner are completely overgrown with small bushes and full of munge. It looks like it's never even been climbed. Until this route receives a good thorough scrubbing, the recommended rack should include a brush and some pruning shears. Oct 20, 2017