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Routes in 10. Prisionero Sangriento
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G&G T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Psicologica T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rosqueros roscones S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Salsa y Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Techo Arrecho T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 551 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Dom on Jun 3, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Angelique Brown, Heliodor Jalba |
Description
Climb up the gulley to reach the first ledge on 4th class terrain.
Belay from here and follow the good crack to the first set of anchors on your left. You should be able to see the obvious crack (camalot #4 is useful).
After the first crack, either go out left which is the easier route and keeps it at 5.10a (Route=Prisionero Sangriento) or straight up for fun 5.11c (guidebook calls it11a but local consensus is higher) overhanging crack cranking similar to Yosemite's Enema.
Its a long pitch, but doable with a single rope! its possible to do only half and use the anchor of the sport face route (Azarate 12.a) to the left.
Also you can climb Prisionero Sangriento, and from the anchors traverse right and setup Techo Arrecho as a TR.
Pitch 2-3
Seldomly done. Blast through the cracks above and join up with easier terrain to the walk off.
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