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Routes in Bankhead

Valleyview S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Mark Stewart
Page Views: 428 total · 25/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Jun 2, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

This route has recently been re-bolted. A new variation keeps the grade at 5.9 but over all makes the route easier. There is some argument over the grade of the original route, as some people feel it is more like 10b instead of 5.9. Pitches can be combined, just bring more draws.

The variation starts on pitch three. From the pitch 2 belay, clip one protection bolt and head left (original route climbs straight up). This variation is 5.7 and ends at the pitch 4 anchors of the original route

Pitch 1: 40m, 5.6
Pitch 2: 25m, 5.9
Pitch 3: 25m, 5.8
Pitch 3 Variation: 55m 5.7
Pitch 4: 25m, 5.9
Pitch 5: 25m, 5.8
Pitch 6: 25m, 5.6
Pitch 7: 25m, 5.7

Rappel the route

Location

The approach trail dumps you right at the base of the route. From here, scramble straight up for approx. 10m. When you get to a scrappy ledge system, traverse left for another 10m stepping across a gap, you should see the bolts for the belay

Protection

Dozen draws and a few runners. All belays are two bolts with rings.

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