Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: BBQ
Page Views: 154 total · 8/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 2, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Even in the age of Trump, we can all agree that yoga pants look good on everybody.

A rowdy, good time of a route that starts kind of warm-uppity and gets a bit harder and more interesting the higher you go. Good sequences on great pockets are there for those who dare to stay away from the cracks and commit to the slightly less than vertical territory found directly in the center of a narrow panel of orangey-yellowish rock.

After pulling on pockets, and reaching for fun holds, for a little over three fourths of the climb, you will arrive below a roof, sweaty and out of breath, and it is here where you will clip a perma-draw. After a good rest, navigate your way past a roof and clip the anchors after fighting thin holds and exposure that might make you poop your pants, just a little bit. I have pulled the roof after pulling huge pockets below it that were located on the right hand side of the bolt line, however, this way is not as obvious as working moves to the left of the last bolt that involve left-hand, finger-crack side pulls that allow for some stemming in the dihedral before the climber is forced to use thin jugs to gain the anchors. Pretty fun either way but I believe most climbers will head left after the perma-draw to finish the hardest moves of the climb. Get on it! Bomb it if you're a hater! Give it love if you fall in love with it! This route is a good addition to The Danks experience.

Location

7th route from the left hand side of the wall. One route to the right of Blowin' Kisses...and one route to the left of a three bolt climb known as Kim Gnardashian. Shares the same start (and first 8 bolts) of "Tellin' Charming Lies" and heads straight up instead of left. Clip a green permadraw and shoot for the black open shut anchors.

Protection

Bring at least 10 quickdraws if you plan the need to go in direct and hangdog your way though it. Other than that, 8 dog bones should do the trick.

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