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Dean's Route

5.12a, Sport, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Dean Noonan
W Virginia > New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start on the first bolt of Beer Pressure (a long sling is helpful). Once in the hueco above, walk carefully to the left side of the hueco (and do not fall here) to clip the second bolt. Continue left past 2 more bolts to a rest stance in a corner before the crux. The 4th bolt has a quicklink on it to keep the gate of your carabiner off the edge of the little roof.

Figure out the crux sequence and climb up to another stance at the fifth bolt. A couple more tricky, but fun sequences separated by rests lead to a redpoint lunge to a good hold up high.

Similar in character to Beer Pressure, with one slightly harder sequence. My understanding is that the guidebook has Beer Pressure and Dean's Route reversed (BP is on climber's right, and DR on the left), and incorrectly shows a traverse from the right hand route to the left hand route at the seventh bolt (these routes only share the first bolt).

Location

At the far end of Third Buttress, shares the first bolt with Beer Pressure, then splits left. Second bolt is on the upper left of the large hueco.

Protection

10 or 11 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.