Sport, 100 ft,
Avg: 3.3 from 3
FA: Dean Noonan
> New River Gorge
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Writing in chalk
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Start on the first bolt of Beer Pressure (a long sling is helpful). Once in the hueco above, walk carefully to the left side of the hueco (and do not fall here) to clip the second bolt. Continue left past 2 more bolts to a rest stance in a corner before the crux. The 4th bolt has a quicklink on it to keep the gate of your carabiner off the edge of the little roof.
Figure out the crux sequence and climb up to another stance at the fifth bolt. A couple more tricky, but fun sequences separated by rests lead to a redpoint lunge to a good hold up high.
Similar in character to Beer Pressure, with one slightly harder sequence. My understanding is that the guidebook has Beer Pressure and Dean's Route reversed (BP is on climber's right, and DR on the left), and incorrectly shows a traverse from the right hand route to the left hand route at the seventh bolt (these routes only share the first bolt).
At the far end of Third Buttress, shares the first bolt with Beer Pressure, then splits left. Second bolt is on the upper left of the large hueco.
10 or 11 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.