Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cyanide Gully

Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duct Taped Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sierra Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silverback T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unspeakable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Martin, Robert Newsom, Dan Shively, Mike Dewie - May 2005
Page Views: 85 total · 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Five stars in the Marty Lewis guidebook.... This is a wild adventure with crazy exposure and crazier situations. I can't quite agree with the star rating given some fairly loose rock though - some of this may clean up with traffic; other bits might not. But if you're up for something that will test your trad mettle and leave you quivering with elation/terror, check this thing out. Oh, and mad props to the FA team for figuring this one out ground up... I wish I could have been there!

Note: Holds shade just slightly longer than other routes on the wall, but if you're trying this in the summer I still recommend an early start.

Begin at a level spot well below the start of the Silverback on a south-facing facet of the wall with a high bolt and wild looking thin flake up higher.

P1 (10c): Climb some chossy cracks to the first of several bolts. Follow these upwards (at some points stepping left of the bolt line). Skip the first anchor and continue out left across a corner to a hanging face and then left again to a wildly exposed corner on the arete. Belay at a second bolted anchor on a comfortable perch.

P2 (11a): Move up a chossy corner above the belay, working left across an initially tightly bolted face to the arete. At the last bolt perform a cruxy move and then run it out to a stance below the wild bomb bay chimney/roof system out left. Clip a pin with a very long runner and work left under the cramped roofs via hand jams and underclings to a stance up in the bowels of this bizarre chimney feature. Here climb up a finger crack (using a wedged, trapezoidal flake gingerly or not at all), then undercling like mad leftwards, stepping across the L-shaped "hatchet flake" before pulling up onto a slab and a bolted belay. Extend your belay down to the end of the undercling traverse to better communicate with your partner.

Rappel 30m to the anchor atop the Silverback, then 25m to the ground.

Protection

A single set of cammers from 0.3 to #3 Camalot. Extra 0.4 or 0.5 Camalots might be nice for the finger crack and undercling on P2 as the rock is a bit hollow there and it is nice to have some redundancy. I did not place a single wire on this route.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments