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Routes in The Upper Wall

5.8 Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bel-Loch Diner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Pool T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fact Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pub Rats T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romnesia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taliban Tea Party T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Wire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Michael Gilbert
Page Views: 87 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Curry on May 30, 2017
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A continuous, thin crack that meanders through a featured face characterizes this cool climb. After a bit of a chossy start, the line cuts hard right to a jug that marks the beginning of a more plumb-line section of the crack. Finish up in a cool, left-facing corner that's a bit harder than it looks from the ground. The anchor lacks bolts and consists of a ratty static line tied to a tree 6' back from the top of the cliff. I'd advise bringing some long webbing (or a bolt kit!).

Location

Look for the thin splitter on the right side of the cliff, just to the right of Fine Line (which is two routes to the right of Pub Rats).

Protection

Go heavy on the thin gear. Nuts are useful, as are doubles of small cams.

Photos

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Ryan Curry
  5.11b
Ryan Curry  
  5.11b
The crack is incredibly consistent in its thinness...you could protect most of this route with black and blue Aliens. That said, I used offset nuts, a few finger-sized cams, and a single #2 and #3 Camalot (in pods). This worthy climb deserves an anchor. May 30, 2017

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