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Crescent Moon Couloir

Mod. Snow, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), Grade III,  Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Mokelumne Wilde… > Round Top
Warning Access Issue: Need a snow park pass. DetailsDrop down

Description

40-50 degree snow. Moderate, difficulty depends on snow conditions. I climbed this route on 5/29/17. Snow was hard, low on the route, and soft enough to kick steps near the top. I chopped a few steps along the way. The angle was fairly consistent. Short, 600 feet, more or less. There is a left and a right fork.

Descend the West Ridge.

Location

See photos. Route is easy to see on the approach hike.

Protection

Crampons, axe.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Crescent Moon Couloir, left and right variations
[Hide Photo] The Crescent Moon Couloir, left and right variations
Looking up the gut of the right variation and what I believe is the steeper of the two variations. Fun side note- when traversing to the summit, there are numerous overhung boulder problems to spice up the final scramble should you choose to.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the gut of the right variation and what I believe is the steeper of the two variations. Fun side note- when traversing to the summit, there are numerous overhung boulder problems to spi…
View of the Crescent Moon Couloir and Round Top Peak.
[Hide Photo] View of the Crescent Moon Couloir and Round Top Peak.
Jan 4th, 2020. Snow cover was thin at times, but solid snow for climbing. Left variation was not filled in
[Hide Photo] Jan 4th, 2020. Snow cover was thin at times, but solid snow for climbing. Left variation was not filled in
the couloir can be seen clearly from the approach
[Hide Photo] the couloir can be seen clearly from the approach
about half way up
[Hide Photo] about half way up
last few steps to the top got steep and the cover was slightly thin. A mild cornice had formed. (Jan 2020)
[Hide Photo] last few steps to the top got steep and the cover was slightly thin. A mild cornice had formed. (Jan 2020)
Choose left or right at the start of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Choose left or right at the start of the climb.
The left fork, from the descent.
[Hide Photo] The left fork, from the descent.
Photo from about 3/4 way to top.
[Hide Photo] Photo from about 3/4 way to top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Henry Targett
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I had a great time on this route [Jan 4 2020]. I'd say it's steeper than 50 degrees at points, especially near the top, but that might be because it wasn't very filled in. Approach was pretty obvious from the Carson Pass Sno Park lot. We skinned in and it took about an hour and a half to get to the bottom of the couloir.

The very top part got a bit spicy when the snow cover was thin and we were hitting some rock with our crampons. Definitely a no-fall zone, but ice axe placements were solid so I wasn't too worried. A belay on this section would have been welcome, but we weren't carrying a rope or pro. If I was going to, I'd bring a couple of pickets, a set of nuts, and a couple small cams.

We were intending to ski the couloir but it was windblown and very thin in certain sections so we descended the west ridge. The skiing wasn't great, quite firm and windblown. Should have waited until later in the day when the snow had softened up more. Jan 5, 2020
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
 
[Hide Comment] I soloed this on Monday June 1 2020 after getting anxious to get out and do something. I had soloed it twice before many years ago, and both times I went up the normal (right) fork. This time I tried the left variation. I only brought one alpine tool with me and was thinking that I would have been more comfortable with two. It's fairly steep near the top and to be honest, after being at home for a few months due to the lock down, I was a bit skittish and didn't risk looking down the entire time I was in the couloir because I didn't want to take the chance of freaking myself out. Anyway it's a really great way to spend a morning or afternoon. I got a bit turned around on the approach, but the hike back to my truck at Carson Pass was straight forward and only took an hour and twenty minutes from the summit. Jun 15, 2020
Emory Clark
Noneya
[Hide Comment] More fun as a ski line than solely as a climb. There are some fun overhung but super positive boulder problems one can pull once topped out from the left variation(which is a separate line called Hidden Couloir) or once you traverse into the notch while headed from the summit from the top of crescent moon proper. The rock is solid and I found it quite enjoyable to pull a couple v0-v2 routes in ice boots at 10k ft. Enjoy! May 21, 2024