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Trial and Triumph
5.11+,
Trad, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
FA: Ken Nichols
Connecticut
> Central Valley
> E Peak
> Fall Wall
Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties.
Details
After many years, the City of Meriden has come to recognize climbing as a legitimate
recreational activity on town land only for those individuals who maintain active membership
with the Ragged Mountain Foundation.
As of late 2019, active members of the RMF can obtain permits sanctioned by Meriden’s
Department of Parks and Recreation that allow for the responsible use of the town’s many cliff
sides, trails, and boulders in pursuit of rock climbing.
Permits can be obtained (by active dues paying RMF members only) from the Meriden Parks
and Recreation building located at 460 Liberty Street between the hours of 7:30 am and 3:30 pm
for a $5 fee. The Parks Department maintains a list of all active RMF members. You can
purchase or renew your RMF membership here. You can also become a member via the “Joint-
Membership Program” with the Access Fund. Please be aware that it may take up to 30 days
between the time of purchasing a membership with the Ragged Mountain Foundation and
appearing on the city’s list of individual climbers authorized to receive permits. Also,
please be aware that permits are issued on an individual basis, and are not interchangeable
between multiple members in a single party.
The permits from the City are good for one calendar year from the date of payment, so you will
need to renew again the following year. Please keep a copy of your RMF membership and a copy
of your permit from the City (electronic image okay) on hand. As part of the agreement, park
rangers and City officials have been informed to ask for identification if they observe
climbers/climbing. Climbers without proper credentials are subject to fines.
This is a massive step forward in the relationship between climbers and the City of Meriden. For
more information on the agreement, please look at the RMF Blog.
As always, be safe and be respectful.
Description
Another great trad line at East Peak. The description is for the "present" free line put up by Ken in the mid 80s. Climb broken rock for the first half of the route to the horizontal crack system that spans the cliff. From the horizontal follow the steep crack system just right of the arête to a sequential and powerful crux sequence. Rated 11+ in "Hooked on Trap Rock" this route is a significant step up from other trap rock 11s.
Location
To the left of Reflections of Fall. Look for the broken shallow corner with bad rock. The free route put up by Mike Heintz and Greg Newth climbed the arête and avoided the awesome crux sequence near the top of the climb, rated 10+.
Protection
Bring a single rack up to #4. Offset micro nuts are useful to protect the sequential crux high on the route. Tree anchors at the top.
[Hide Photo] Moving through the initial corner before the upper business. Any pic is better than no pic?
NH
Bar Harbor, ME
CT