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Routes in Hogwild

2 pin crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Accessory Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chorizo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
HMR-1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
HMR-2 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
HMR-3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
HMR-6 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
HMR-7 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ham and Cheese S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hogwild T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's Better with Bacon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Just Acquaintances T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mixologist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Gaynor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prosciutto T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab Hog Millionaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Swine Flu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This Ain't Kosher T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Triplet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown trad T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 86 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ensign on May 25, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

I don't know what this route is really called or how hard it is. I called it HMR-1 for "Hogwild mystery route #1", hoping somebody can provide better information later. The best I can say for this route is that there is a tree right at the base providing a nice shady hangout for the belayer. From the tree climb up easy slabs to a bolt that looks like it's not in deep enough and it's bent in a manner that is not confidence inspiring. You can back this up with a yellow metolius TCU just under the bolt. Then make a few tricky insecure friction moves above the bolt. This leads to casual, slabby face climbing. There are only 2 bolts protecting the entire route. You can get supplemental gear (0.75 - 1 camalot) up on the face if you traverse out to a flake that feels like it is offroute. It's off on the right side about 15 feet out of line of the bolts - far enough that I didn't notice it until I was on the way back down.

Location

Starts at a small pine tree up against the base of the cliff about 150 yards to the left/northeast of Better with Bacon.

Protection

2 draws and whatever gear you like for the chains on the top. You can place a 0.75" narrow-head cam just under the first bolt. You can place a 1.25"-1.75" cam behind a flake off the the right about halfway up the route. I appreciate the work and expense that the folks who put up these routes go through. However, I do think it is important that climbers understand what they are getting themselves into if there is an issue with fixed protection. The 1st bolt and one of the anchor bolts look like the holes were drilled a bit shallow and they are bent off to the left. That being said, the anchor held me!

Photos

Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Ask Petch? May 25, 2017