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Routes in South Summit Slab(s)

3 Blind Mice T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Geriatric Wanderings T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Mike Stanislaw, Sam Vona, Harry Young Jul 2008
Page Views: 91 total · 6/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on May 24, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

DISCLAIMER - I / we did not climb this route but I wanted to include it because it is, by far, the easiest of the three routes to find, given the proper directions. See "Location"

START - follow the directions in "Location" (below) to the "6 ft high, right-facing corner directly below a 10 ft high slot." [ from Adirondack Rock "2" , Book 2, pg 434 ] Reference this book for further details.

NOTE: The route description states that, after climbing the initial corner, "then step left onto a slab to a shallow open book". This was confusing to me because the "open book" is REALLY shallow (like 179-degrees !) and I'd describe the start of this climb as: "Climb the 6 ft high corner, step left 2-3 ft, then climb the 3-4 ft high thin, incipient crack (just left of a small arching flake, pro here)....

Location

See the "South Peak Base Area Sketch Map" photo

From the "landmark" boulder, walk back (towards the car) on the hiking trail about 300 ft. [for me this was about 65 'paces', a pace being one complete right-plus-left-footstep].

Basically, now all you have to do is make a 90-degree right turn (towards the cliff) and walk/bushwhack in a fairly straight line until you hit the cliff * . There's a fairly open area (maybe 5 ft x 5 ft x 4 ft) right at the base of the climb where a tree has fallen away from the cliff (photo). AND the slab with the tan streak (photo) should be easy to find.

* Specific directions: Starting back on the hiking trail, 300 +/- ft from the boulder...If you are in exactly the correct spot you might see where the moss and vegetation has been scraped away from the surface of a slabby boulder. This seemed to be the actual path to "3 Blind Mice" (and "South Peak Route"), but it seemed to peter out after 10 or 20 feet. An easier bushwhack was found about 10-15 ft back (i.e towards the landmark boulder.) But nothing is really difficult bushwhacking, the woods are fairly open here.

Once you find 3 Blind Mice, South Peak Route is about 100-125 ft to the right. The route starts from a grassy shelf that you scramble up to. (photos posted here, in 3 Blind Mice)

Protection

I'd assume a std rack - maybe a larger piece (#3?) for upper section.

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