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Routes in Lower Cathedral Spire

Hail To The Chief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Regular Route - Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South by Southwest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Bob Jensen, Josie Mckee, Patrick Warren 5/2017
Page Views: 988 total · 74/month
Shared By: bob jensen on May 22, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

  • *Currently this is an adventure route.**
We did not fix lines and just went for it so expect a fresh experience.

Climb the first seven pitches of Hail To The Chief. Ratings for those pitches are 9, 10-, 11-, 10, 11, 9+, 7 fuzzy wuzzy. At start of pitch 6 traverse right clipping bolt. Go around blunt arête and climb gonger flakes (5.7) back to join original line.

From the giant ledge atop pitch 7, after moving belay to base of pillar. Climb up a ways then around left side of pillar. "The finger" Once around climb towards the huge block that is in the right gaping crack above. Belay up under block where smaller gear is available and is safe from above. Save the 5 & 6 for the next pitch. 9+

Climb over left side of block and engage flare utilizing a range of techniques. You will pass an old aid ladder (upper north face Rowell/Macdonald 6/1962) the last bolt on this old ladder serves as a fine directional to keep the rope from going deep. Next, you will have to wiggle through a Harding Slot sort of affair. Once out of the womb, move left a few feet and fire up #6 crack to anchor ledge. Exhale.

Thank you Steve Bosque and Kevin Deweese for putting up Hail To The Chief and then telling me about it. The work they did was a lot!! Much appreciated.

Location [Suggest Change]

Located on the West Face of Lower Cathedral Spire. Follow approach for Higher Spire. Start is located in an obvious corner to the left of obvious fractured roof system.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Rack we took for entire route:
One 00 tcu
Two 0 tcu’s
One set totem basics
One set offset aliens (very very helpful)
Two sets C4's to #4
One each C4 #5, #6
Solid set offset nuts down to small.
8 shoulder length slings
4 ten inch draws

Descent [Suggest Change]

Option 1- Rap "Hail To The Chief". Beware to place pro on way down first two. Otherwise you will be in space. Two ropes so bring tag.

Option 2 - Rap South By Southwest with one rope, but you'll have to go get your packs or come up to route with just what you're gonna bring.

I would recommend option 2. The raps down the NW face suck. Especially when it’s getting late and/or dark.
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
 
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
 
This free line that Bob and Josie created from DeWeese/Bosque's Hail to the Chief and Rowel/Macdonald's Upper North Face is destined to be a classic. Because of their work, climbers now have the ability to freeclimb the entirety of the West Face of Lower Spire in its entirety at a readily accessible grade. Jun 8, 2017

More About Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall)

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