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> Lower Cathedral Spire
Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Lower Cathedral Spire
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Hail To The Chief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route - Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South by Southwest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Jensen, Josie Mckee, Patrick Warren 5/2017 |
| Page Views: | 2,538 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 22, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
- *Currently this is an adventure route.**
We did not fix lines and just went for it so expect a fresh experience.
Climb the first seven pitches of Hail To The Chief. Ratings for those pitches are 9, 10-, 11-, 10, 11, 9+, 7 fuzzy wuzzy. At start of pitch 6 traverse right clipping bolt. Go around blunt arête and climb gonger flakes (5.7) back to join original line.
From the giant ledge atop pitch 7, after moving belay to base of pillar. Climb up a ways then around left side of pillar. "The finger" Once around climb towards the huge block that is in the right gaping crack above. Belay up under block where smaller gear is available and is safe from above. Save the 5 & 6 for the next pitch. 9+
Climb over left side of block and engage flare utilizing a range of techniques. You will pass an old aid ladder (upper north face Rowell/Macdonald 6/1962) the last bolt on this old ladder serves as a fine directional to keep the rope from going deep. Next, you will have to wiggle through a Harding Slot sort of affair. Once out of the womb, move left a few feet and fire up #6 crack to anchor ledge. Exhale. This pitch is probably more like 10+ or 11-. Really steep.
Thanks to Kevin Deweese and Steve Bosque for putting up Hail To The Chief and then telling me about it. The work they did was a lot!! Much appreciated.
Location
Located on the West Face of Lower Cathedral Spire. Follow approach for Higher Spire. Start is located in an obvious corner to the left of obvious fractured roof system.
Protection
Rack we took for entire route:
One 000 tcu
Two 00 tcu’s
One set totem basics
One set offset aliens (very very helpful)
Two sets C4's to #4
One each C4 #5, #6
Solid set offset nuts down to small.
8 shoulder length slings
4 ten inch draws
One 000 tcu
Two 00 tcu’s
One set totem basics
One set offset aliens (very very helpful)
Two sets C4's to #4
One each C4 #5, #6
Solid set offset nuts down to small.
8 shoulder length slings
4 ten inch draws
Descent
Option 1- Rap "Hail To The Chief". Beware to place pro on way down first two. Otherwise you will be in space. Two ropes so bring tag.
Option 2 - Rap South By Southwest with one rope, but you'll have to go get your packs or come up to route with just what you're gonna bring.
I would recommend option 2. The raps down the NW face suck. Especially when it’s getting late and/or dark.
Option 2 - Rap South By Southwest with one rope, but you'll have to go get your packs or come up to route with just what you're gonna bring.
I would recommend option 2. The raps down the NW face suck. Especially when it’s getting late and/or dark.
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