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Wilbur
5.5,
Trad, 122 ft (37 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 5
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Hogsback
> Hogwild
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
IDK what this route is called or what the rating is? There are number of fun, easy, family-friendly single pitch routes to the left/Northeast of Better with Bacon (BwB) that I can't find online or in any of my guidebooks. These routes are good for beginners, but could use some traffic to clean them up a bit. Please, would somebody in the know improve on this post? HMR-7 stands for "Hogwild Mystery Route #7" because of my ignorance. You can start in the corner pictured, or in a thin crack just left of the corner. From the top of the corner, splendid thin dike-hiking takes you past 4 bolts and an optional 0.6" cam placement to the chains. The bolts are where they are needed, a bit run out on easier terrain between. The route finishes on the same ledge as the first pitch of BwB and would serve as an alternative start to BwB without the micro-brassie nutting. (but who would want to miss that?). Please be CAREFUL descending this route! I think it is about 37 meters. Even using a 70 meter rope it would be really easy to get dropped lowering off. There is a ledge running over to the base of BwB that makes the final down-climb a cinch.
Location
Starts at a right facing corner crack just a few yards left (NE) of the first pitch of Better with Bacon (BwB). There are about 6 more fun, easy routes to the left of this one...
Protection
I was fine with a single rack to #3 camalot to supplement the 4 bolts on the route. There is a solid looking 2-bolt anchor with chains on top. Careful - a 70 meter rope won't quite get you back to the ground, but it's an easy downclimb.
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Santa Rosa, CA
Palo Alto, CA