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Routes in Waterfall Area

Bats-n-Bees T A2
Bennet A Lybarger Route T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Common Wealth T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fiddler, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Lock and Key T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rats-n-Bats T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rats-n-Bees T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Waterfall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waterfall Right TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: George Smith and Jim Lybarger
Page Views: 35 total, 5/month
Shared By: DesertDan on May 18, 2017
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description

In the Lower Canyon, to the right of the waterfall, on Queho's Tower, about 15 to 20 feet right of Common Wealth, climb up about 15 feet out of the wash to some flaring finger locks and jams, follow the crack system leading up and left, 30 feet, through more flaring jams, crux. Protect at your waist so you can use the finger locks before stuffing them with gear. The rock opens up into a flaring dihedral large enough to stem. Good cams, 1.5 to 2 inch, at the end of the crack system protect the top of the dihedral, climb 5.6 stemming, 15 feet, step right at the top to easier ground and the belay ledge, 5.4 10 feet. The top is the a bit run out, but on easier ground. Belay using natural gear.

Location

Starts just to the right of Common Wealth, about 20 feet.

You have a few choices for the descent.

1. Scramble South from the top of the route along spooky ledges until you reach the Death Couloir, and down the talus to the wash.

2. Continue to the top of the saddle between Queho's Tower and the South side of the canyon, from there scramble up the East side of the tower, 4th class about 20 feet, to the top and rap from the anchors down to the base of the water fall. This is the easiest way down.

3. Down climb the 5.6 routes on the Easy Slabs below the belay.

Protection

A set of nuts and cams to 2 inches. The first ascent was lead on stoppers and hexes. The first gear is up about 15 feet above the wash, from there to near the top of the dihedral the gear is great and not run out at all, the last 25 feet is run out but easy to the belay.

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