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La Guerre Sainte

5.12b, Sport, 1300 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Guy Abbert, Phillip Batoux, Herve Bouvard, Alan Hod, Arnaud Petit, Benait Robert
International > Asia > Jordan > Wadi Rum
Access Issue: Entrance Fees Details

Description

"The Holy War" aka "Jihad". A spectacular 1300 foot pitch climb, established ground up, and the first of its style in Wadi Rum. The line climbs 10 incredible pitches of hueco'd face before reaching the headstone wall, where the hueco's melt improbably into face crimps and barely there sandstone smears for three of the hardest pitches on the route.

Most climbers will take a Bedouin taxi to the base of the base of Nassarani. You can be dropped near a bivy boulder close to the start of route. The line follows the leftmost bolt line. A newly bolted route (April 17), NeverNeverLand (8a+ / 5.13), starts directly to the right and shares the first crux pitch.

Crux sections of the climb are well bolted but expect run outs and aging slings in some locations.

Double rope rap the route. Alternatively, you can rap with a single 70m on Never Never Land (according to the FA team).

Here's Arnaud Petit's description from the AAC:
"This is an outstanding climb thanks to the special rock (the sandstone is sometimes more sand than rock) and the beautiful desert scenery. It’s like climbing on the moon! Particularly when you gain altitude, you have the feeling you are in another world: the valley with its yellow sand contrasts with the small red massifs. The colored, very sculpted rock requires a perfect concentration and technique. You are obliged to learn to use your whole body so as not to break a hold. It’s more than climbing on your feet. When it’s 5.12c, that’s not easy."

Protection

Draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Will finishing the first crux pitch, mid-climb.
[Hide Photo] Will finishing the first crux pitch, mid-climb.
original topo
[Hide Photo] original topo
Looking down the gorgeous headwall.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the gorgeous headwall.
hard to beat the scenery
[Hide Photo] hard to beat the scenery
spectacular
[Hide Photo] spectacular