To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Sidewalk Chalk
5.12b,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
FA: Crit Conrad, Alan Watts
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (z) Lower Gorge
> W Side
> (2) Wildfire Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
An awesome new variation to "Edge of the Road". Start by doing the entire crux sequence of On the Road to about the half way mark on that route. Put a runner on your last piece of gear and move up and left on good holds to a stance on the arete. From here, get ready to execute hard and sometimes funky moves at every bolt. Great stances allow casual clips, but the movement in between is difficult and sometimes perplexing.
Above the last bolt you can place a small wire or ball nut to take a little sting out of the last moves. Everything culminates in a pumping sequence to and through a small crack (which is also your last gear) before easy terrain to a new anchor on a pedestal about 10 feet up and left of On the Road's Anchor
Location
Start as for On the Road and finish on a new 2 bolt anchor above
Protection
Gear to .5 inches, possibly 3 in the .5 camalot/orange metolius size. Optional blue ball nut or small offset nut, and 3 bolts.
Bend, OR
Bend