Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2400 ft
FA: May 3, 1996 Manu Guy and Manu Pellissier
Page Views: 634 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on May 16, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


This route is becoming popular, and for good reason. It's got an easy approach and mellow but aesthetic climbing. It's a good warm-up for Ham And Eggs. As a couloir, it's a funnel for any debris from overhead. Climbers should consider overnight lows, daytime highs, and timing when planning an ascent.

Boot up the debris cone and into the narrowing chute. Around 5700' the couloir narrows considerably and steepens slightly. Continue through this section over several steep steps. Though mostly snow and ice, some easy mixed climbing could be encountered in the narrow section of the route depending on conditions.

Above the narrow section the couloir widens. Just before the col the snow steepens, expect a bit of a cornice here.

It seems like most parties stop at the col between London and Werewolf Towers. The summit of Werewolf tower is several pitches of mostly-rock climbing above the col.


This is the slot between London and Werewolf Towers. The narrow section is skinny and deep enough that a view into it is not really available up-gorge. Descend the route with a combination of downclimbing and rappelling. Rap stations are set up for two 60m ropes.


Stoppers, cams from .3 - 1 BD. Ice screws, maybe a picket. Plan on leaving cord (and maybe other gear) to beef up rap stations.

If continuing to the summit more rock gear (and maybe even rock shoes) would be useful.