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The Whetterbox
5.11d,
Trad, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Mike Artz, Doug Reed, Rick Thompson, Bob Rentka 1988
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Endless Wall
> A) Fern Point
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Begin at the base of a chimney on a mud ramp. Probably best to stick clip the first low bolt, then wiggle up and step onto the left wall and preform a technical and balancy move leftward towards a left rising positive flake. Climb up and slightly right to the routes namesake hold and get great gear. Follow holds up to a pin (can be backed up with a blue slider) and a good stance, then prepare to knuckle down thru another pin and bolt. Follow easier terrain up to a tree for an anchor. A thought provoking and technical masterpiece. Classic NRG mixed climbing.
Location
This route is located to the left after you walk past the classic arete 'Le Futuriste'. Walk up the hill to the corner system and locate the chimney where you'll start.
Protection
This route only requires two or three pieces of gear. You'd be totally safe with carrying a purple TCU thru a .4 Camalot. A blue slider is nice to back up the first pin as it is starting to show its age. Also carry a few 2' slings, you'll need to be creative with one of them. And a few quickdraws.
Boulder, CO