Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Doug Reed. 1988
Page Views: 145 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kevin Umbel on May 16, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Begin at the base of a chimney on a mud ramp. Probably best to stick clip the first low bolt, then wiggle up and step onto the left wall and preform a technical and balancy move leftward towards a left rising positive flake. Climb up and slightly right to the routes namesake hold and get great gear. Follow holds up to a pin (can be backed up with a blue slider) and a good stance, then prepare to knuckle down thru another pin and bolt. Follow easier terrain up to a tree for an anchor. A thought provoking and technical masterpiece. Classic NRG mixed climbing.

Location

This route is located to the left after you walk past the classic arete 'Le Futuriste'. Walk up the hill to the corner system and locate the chimney where you'll start.

Protection

This route only requires two or three pieces of gear. You'd be totally safe with carrying a purple TCU thru a .4 Camalot. A blue slider is nice to back up the first pin as it is starting to show its age. Also carry a few 2' slings, you'll need to be creative with one of them. And a few quickdraws.

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