North Chimney (Flat on Your Back Crack)
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||65 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Caleb Lowery on May 16, 2017|
DescriptionCrack / chimney in the middle of the north side of Twin Sisters tower formation. Belayer is best at the very bottom near the trail - the climbing is 4th class / 5.easy at the beginning as you work your way up the ledges. Starts getting dicier as you approach the crack / chimney. Crux is when you first pull up into the chimney area and you're left to decide whether to try and wedge your way up the chimney or climb out onto the face. The hand holds are decent - the feet are a little trickier. Once you get over the chimney area its nice holds to pull yourself on top with some feet in the chimney to step up on.
LocationTwin sisters tower formation nearest the road, on the north face. From South park entrance - it's easiest to walk across the bridge and head right towards the bottom of the sentinel, then get on the road and walk until there's a dirt road access point (blocked by gate) to walk up to the road. Follow that down past the gulley, then turn left up the trail which will turn into stepping stones that will lead you up to the area.
From the south you can park and walk up a trail heading north which will bring you on the back-side of Twin Sisters.
Once on top - run rope through the rappel rings and rap / lower (rope will be bent over the edge of the tower).
ProtectionNo bolts on face, trad only. 3 Bolts with rap chains on top for setting up anchors in all directions.
after the first ledge there's some spots for tri-cams, or perhaps a smaller SLCD. At the second ledge there's a good wide crack to wedge things into - a Yellow BD Cam worked, as did a Blue DMM Torque Nut. The protection at the crux is a little tricky - you can get a tri-cam (.25 / Black) underneath the block wedged in the chimney, and a #6 / Green BD nut in a little split up left near the face. After that it's up and over to the top.