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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Bitterfingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 150 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark P Thomas on May 15, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Ruckman's calls this an 'unpleasant squeeze chimney'. The more recent "Ferguson to Lone Pine Peak" guide describes this as "A dirty squeeze chimney. Have fun..."

Fun I did have, but I disagree with these sentiments! The crack, while short, is sustained at wide technique and surprisingly difficult for a so-called 5.6. It has two distinct cruxes, the entry above the pine tree and then a harder one at the second tier beyond. The rock is cleaner than most other routes in the area, and it takes pro well. Just make sure to leapfrog your wide cams...

Also, I don't know if a missing hold broke off or I missed something, but the second crux felt way harder than 5.6. I would have rated it more like 5.8-5.9 (based on my experience. I led a lot of wide in Yosemite, including the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock & Harding Route on Conness).

Not shown in any guidebooks is a short by fun second pitch continuation in order to access anchors above Fat Man's Misery and The Waltz. Continue scrambling up the corner and you will encounter a juicy arcing hand crack. While you can step left to slab halfway up, why would you do that?! Go for the awkward wide exit with the fun chickenhead face hold. This crack takes BD #2-3 pieces, and a #4 nicely protects the exit.

Location

This route climbs directly above the pine tree at the right side of Fat Man's Ledge. Belay on bushes at the top. You can use the Five Fingers Rappel to the south to descend, or continue up an additional pitch to gain anchors above Fat Man's Misery and The Waltz.

Protection

I placed a BD #2 just before the entry. After that I leapfrogged up a #6 most of the way, with an optional #5 for one narrower part. I placed a #0.75 & #3 as 'piece of mind' gear to leave behind as I leapfrogged cams.

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