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Routes in Main Wall

Abendrot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blocks, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Crack One T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack Two T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Final Finale T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Finale T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Holy Trinity T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jiminy Cricket T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Median T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Pinnacle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SN2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sinusitis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steve's Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wet Dreams T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Alf Muehlbauer (1960-1965)
Page Views: 22 total, 3/month
Shared By: Stephen None on May 15, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

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Description

This route follows a finger / hand crack up the face with many good flakes and block to stand on along the way. This crack is extremely polished making jamming difficult, and the feet are extremely slippery for such a low grade. After heavy rain this route may be covered in mud and dried dirt adding to the insecurity of the holds. It is still a decent easy lead due to the size of the crack and secure gear placement stances.

Location

This route is approximately 100m to the climbers left of the stairs. The biggest landmark to locate this route is tree found about half-way up the face just to the right of the route.

Protection

This line is lead on trad gear. A standard escarpment rack will work here. The crack is quite irregular making cam placement tough, but there are enough restrictions to make passives easy to place.

There are glue-ins at the top of the cliff, they are about 1m back from the edge so be sure to take a long cordlette or some slings to extend your anchor down if you wish to top-rope this route.

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