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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 90 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mark P Thomas on May 15, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the rightmost route that ascends from the belay ledges beneath 'Chicken Chickenhead' and 'The Waltz'.

This route has clean & straightforward 5.5 chimneying, with ample opportunity for small gear, making this a good early chimney lead. However, this is a real chimney that requires proper chimney technique, so it will not feel as easy as 5.5 without proper technique.

Location

The belay ledge is reached via a straightforward cl. 3-4 scramble up the first part of Stone the Crows.

You can also start it by first traversing low from a gear anchor at the far left edge of the ledge beneath Fat Man's misery (e.g. if you are working 5 Fingers area right-to-left). Do a broad step across to some fins & hand-sized jam and you're off!

Rappel off a tree to the left between The Waltz & Tenderloin. Note that 1 70m barely makes it down. A 60m might get you to terrain to scramble, but make sure your ropes are even lengths! Worst case, some people have rapped off an intermediate tree that is near the bottom.

Protection

I used BD 1x#1, 1x#2, 2x#3, 1x#4. The best option is to make a gear anchor in a crack beyond the rapp tree using hand sized pieces & larger (#1-3, opt. #4-5).

Knee pads might be appreciated.

Photos

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