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Routes in Joe's Rock

Broadway Joe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cool Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Nine Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's All Buckets TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's a Bargin TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Larry Joe Bird T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mother Superior TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nine to Five (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
No Bargin TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sister of Mercy TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokey Joe's Cafe TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 118 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on May 13, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

Start just left of the notch in the roof instead of following the left-angling crack (as for Five Nine Crack). Climb up steep buckets to a sloping ledge. Use a hueco-type pocket and an undercling to traverse right into the roof notch. The move into the notch requires a bit of balance and is reachy (5.9 crux). You may have to find some intermediate crimpers/slopers if you are shorter. There are a few solid holds that can pull you through the notch. The rest of the climbing is only 5.5. This leads to the (2) ring anchors at top.

Location

This Five Nine Crack variation starts to the left of the distinguishable, left-angling crack (about 30' left of where the access trail meets the cliff). The line follows close to where your top rope hangs from the (2) ring anchors. This variation (on top rope) has less rope drag/abrasion and swing than the Five Nine Crack route.

Protection

Toprope or lead with gear up to 2".

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