Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: K. Karlstrom & S. Baxter (1970s)
Page Views: 951 total · 19/month
Shared By: Derek Field on May 13, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

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The 4-5 inch wide crack splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock is an old-school blue-collar thrutch and a great example of 5.9 offwidth from the 1970s.

The most direct line from the ground climbs a chossy stembox to reach the first major ledge. Walk to the back of the ledge and enter the chimney - you have the option of taking a finger crack (left) or heaving over a large chockstone in the chimney (right). You can get a #3 cam below the first roof before things get wide. Longsleeves and tenacity highly recommended.

Just below the summit there are many options for a gear belay. Rappel (70m rope) from chains down southwest face.


Obvious 4-inch offwidth splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock. Approach via Chimney Rock Trail. 15-20 minutes


Doubles: 4 and 5 c4 camalot
Singles: .5 to 3 c4 camalot (mostly for gear anchor)
Couple TCUs if taking the finger crack