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Routes in Chimney Rock

Original Chimney Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Headed Stranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South East Face East Chimney Rock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
West Tower - Southwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: K. Karlstrom & S. Baxter (1970s)
Page Views: 118 total, 16/month
Shared By: Derek Field on May 13, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The 4-5 inch wide crack splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock is an old-school blue-collar thrutch and a great example of 5.9 offwidth from the 1970s.

The most direct line from the ground climbs a chossy stembox to reach the first major ledge. Walk to the back of the ledge and enter the chimney - you have the option of taking a finger crack (left) or heaving over a large chockstone in the chimney (right). You can get a #3 cam below the first roof before things get wide. Longsleeves and tenacity highly recommended.

Just below the summit there are many options for a gear belay. Rappel (70m rope) from chains down southwest face.

Location

Obvious 4-inch offwidth splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock. Approach via Chimney Rock Trail. 15-20 minutes

Protection

Doubles: 4 and 5 c4 camalot
Singles: .5 to 3 c4 camalot (mostly for gear anchor)
Couple TCUs if taking the finger crack

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