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Blue Brains

5.11b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Umbel, Reger, Jenkins. Nov 2016.
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down


Locate the route Happy Hands and the major corner system to the left. Begin 5-10' right of this corner system. Climb for about 10-15' on the featured holds and get some downward facing pro, (this pro is tricky and must be located or else you'll climb into ground fall potential) do committing moves slightly up and rightward to a stance. From here plug more gear and do fun moves on good holds to another stance and a follow a leftward rampish feature to about 20' shy of cliff top. From here negotiate path of least resistance to the top of cliff.


Begin just right of the major corner system climbers left of Happy Hands.


Single rack of cams to 2". With a focus on the small stuff. Stoppers. 2' slings. A Blue X4 works great for the low crux!