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Routes in Redemption Crag

Diagon Alley T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Karkus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Redemption Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Alley T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slytherin TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown face climb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 226 total · 14/month
Shared By: JD1984 on May 11, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

To the right of Redemption Crack is a clean face. Climb the face staying right of the vertical seam, passing several horizontal cracks. Excellent rock makes you wish it was taller.

Location

Start in the center of the main face, starting at the toe of the cliff. Walk off to climber's left via the Mid-State trail.

Protection

Small cams work for two of the horizontal cracks, but the crux is protected by a slotted nut behind a questionable feature. A purple C3 (or equivalent) is also helpful. If you intend to TR the route, do not use the small tree right by the edge of the cliff. It is nearly dead and clearly worn through from years of abuse.

Photos

JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.9
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.9
Best route at the crag with excellent rock. The crux is a bit height-dependent and felt similar in difficulty to The Fool at Crow. May 13, 2017

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