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Warn’t no home like a Raft

5.6, Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts
New York > Powerlinez > s. Books Tier > 5.2 Top Shelf
Warning Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. DetailsDrop down

Description

Fun moves all the way (once you know where the good holds and positions are).

Up the wide crack to the top.

name? a quote from the 13-year-old boy narrator "drifting down the big, still river" together with a runaway slave -- in the first half of the American "good book" which showed the way for many others on the Great Books list.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Obvious vertical bottom-to-top wide crack toward right end of sector, about 25 feet right of white tree.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Trad: Standard rack, emphasis on small finger-sized cams.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Top Shelf sector.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top Shelf right center
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K. Lemon Tart
<br>
M. Further Bus
<br>
N. Not Eternal
<br>
R. Allowed she would Sivilize me
<br>
S. Warn't no home like a Raft
[Hide Photo] Top Shelf right center K. Lemon Tart M. Further Bus N. Not Eternal R. Allowed she would Sivilize me S. Warn't no home like a Raft
Top Shelf right
<br>
M. Further Bus
<br>
R. Allowed she would Sivilize me
<br>
S. Warn't no home like a Raft
<br>
T. All Right then, I'll go to Hell
<br>
U. Madness in Any Direction
[Hide Photo] Top Shelf right M. Further Bus R. Allowed she would Sivilize me S. Warn't no home like a Raft T. All Right then, I'll go to Hell U. Madness in Any Direction

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Frank Black
Yonkers, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Goes on gear, bring small finger-sized cams. Aug 31, 2019
Ryan A
Highland Park, NJ
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Finger & smaller cams are helpful.

I found the gear to be finicky and uninspiring, but the placement stances are great.

The movement on this climb was varied and fun. I recommend it but I would suggest caution to a less confident leader

Beta warning: I found the top part a bit confusing, but if you go straight up the notch it’s all there Jul 28, 2022