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Routes in King (South Face)

Catabolism S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wally's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Wally Wilson 1987
Page Views: 132 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on May 11, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

A few face moves gets you into the dihedral. Move up and left past some old tattered slings and a bail anchor w/ rap ring. From here, climb the flaring, intermittent cracks (crux, offset cams great here, reduces rating to PG) for about 15' to easier climbing. Once to the large bush, move right and up to the top. Gear anchor.

Descent: Rappel "Expectations" route 60' to the West. 70m rope gets you down in one. If shorter, there are midway rappel chains.

Note: If you climb just the bottom half, and TR or rappel from the mess of webbing and rap rings, it is a 3 star 5.7.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start on a large flat rock with a large boulder to lookers left. Looking up, you will be under a large right facing dihedral with a little bush in it.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear to 3". Offset stoppers and cams useful.

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