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Death Tongue

5.13b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: Doug Mishler, 1989
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main

Description

The crimpfest to the climber's left of Farewell to Arms. Originally established at 5.12+, holds have broken to make it harder.

Follow the bolt line up in a sea of crimps (and a couple of pockets). Rest where you can because the climbing only gets harder. More obvious crimps will take you to the left of the bolt line near the top, with a heartbreaking crux at the last bolt as you dance into a seam that takes you to the anchor stance. Congratulations!

According to the guidebook, copping out to the arete before clipping the last bolt lowers the difficulty to 13a.

Location

To the left of Farewell to Arms.

Protection

Bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

GregC.
Reno, NV
[Hide Comment] This is an amazing line and felt harder than the neighboring Cannibals. Hard crux off the ground and up near the chains. May 30, 2017