Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 240 total · 9/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on May 10, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: South side crags access issue. Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

Begin as for Stiff Upper Lip (11d), groveling your way through some dirty crack/offwidth. Take care reaching the second bolt, and then paddle through some subpar overhanging stone to the base of a dihedral roof feature.

Do a few hard pulls to reach a no-hands rest before the crux, a beautifully featureless sheet of white-orange stone. Crank a hard lockoff to reach the slippery arete, then figure out how to not barndoor off as you aim for a stance out left under the cap roof.

Though it would be logical to end the route here, every New River climb must end at the top of the cliff, so do a final dirty roof encounter, trending right along a roof flake to anchors on the face (make sure you take a moment to locate these from the ground or you might get hopelessly lost).

Location

Crack left of Old Scratch (12d). Shares first two bolts with Stiff Upper Lip (11d).

Protection

Bolts to a bolt anchor.

Photos

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