Type: Sport, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Enzo Camilleri, Palo e Bruno Morandi, 1960
Page Views: 147 total · 8/month
Shared By: percious on May 10, 2017
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

P1. V+ There is a sign that protrudes from the part of the cliff that juts out. Start the route on the right-side of the sign, on the right side of the blunt arret. Pass through some vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, then head right at the end of the pitch to two sets of double anchors (we thought this was the crux of the route). 2 Bolt anchor.

P2. V Continue up through a small crux bulge and to another anchor. 2 Bolt anchor.

P3. V Similar to P2. The anchor is below a large runnel. 2 Bolt anchor.

P4. V Head up the overhanging terrain through some polished stone. The climbing here is a bit insecure but well bolted. 2 Bolt anchor.

P5. V- Similar to P4 but a tad easier, this crux has fantastic position. 2 Bolt anchor.

P6. V or 6a+ The route traverses left here, but we opted for the direct finish. The direct finish had a distinct puzzle in the last bits of overhanging terrain before topping out on the cliff. 3 bolt anchor.

Location

All of the routes along the spiderman wall are behind the monastery. There is parking on the right prior to the small shops within eyeshot of the gates. After entering the gates, you make an abrupt left and leave through a side exit. Here you will find yourself on an old carriage path. You follow this path through a few switchbacks until you see a sign for the climbers trail. Follow this trail. The first branch-off is for Beatrice. The second branch is for the 5.9 route that is usually used for rappel, see the picture below. 5 raps later you will find yourself at the bottom of the gully, traverse climber's right until you find a small sign sticking out from the cliff, there will be a few tiles adhered to the rock. The climb begins to

Word to the wise, if you need to use the bathroom, bring your own toilet paper. There are bathrooms in the monastery but they are lacking seats and paper, like most of the places I found in Italy.

Protection

12 Draws and some anchor material. We brought 18 draws and linked p2-3. You could probably link 4-5 also.

Photos

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