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Routes in Apache Arrow

Airborne Sage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocaterra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Derek Field, Giselle Fernandez (April 2017)
Page Views: 204 total, 32/month
Shared By: Derek Field on May 9, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pocaterra is a mountaineer-style ramble up the southwest face of Apache Arrow. The thin opening pitch and wide second pitch have good crack climbing, while the upper two pitches are more of an adventurous wander to the summit. Decent routefinding skills won't go unused here.

The name is an homage to memories at the Pocaterra Lodge in the Canadian Rockies with my late grandfather Art Staniland, who passed away while we were working on this route.

Pitch 1: Climb the splitter fingercrack (5.10-) and pull a hollowed roof on good edges to surmount a mini-pillar. Place a 4" piece and face-climb along the right-slanting crack (5.9) past one bolt. Trend up and right on scruffy ledges to a two-bolt chain anchor on the main face. (5.10-, 90 feet)

Pitch 2: Move left off the belay into a wide gully (5.7), aiming for the obvious steep chimney. There is a burly roof move (5.9) to exit the bombay flare. Take a couple steps right and finish with a crimpy boulder problem (5.8) in a seam with small pods for gear. Belay from the cordalette anchor around a healthy tree. (5.9, 70 feet)

P2 variation: "Malibu Sandblast" - This is the fingercrack to the right of the chimney. Begins in an eye-catching golden dihedral, passes a sweet angular roof, but eventually degrades to a horrendous flare. Steep climbing on thin fiddly pro. Finishes with a burly wide overhang below the anchor tree. Prepare to eat sand. (5.10)

Pitch 3: The quest for the summit pushes onward with the Chossaneering Pitch. Scramble up a few ledges to the next band of rock. Start climbing the most direct corner (5.7) but step left at the first minor ledge (~10 feet up the corner; total ~25 feet above the belay tree) and walk over to a hidden tunnel. (Note: Take care not to miss the traverse left, as the initial corner becomes scary 5.9 up higher). Squeeze through a neat little hidden tunnel and stand atop a mini-pillar. Continue up a loose gully (5.6) to a small roof. When you pull the roof (5.7+), swing left to a good shelf with a two-bolt chain anchor. (5.7+, 90 feet)

Pitch 4: Climb straight up off the belay (5.7 with hand crack on right wall) to gain a stance below a right-trending ramp. Enjoy airy climbing on the featured, low-angle arete (5.6) with occasional gear in the corner. Belay from the two-bolt chain anchor just below the summit ridge. (5.7, 80 feet)

Scramble 3rd-class to the summit of Apache Arrow.

Rappel the route with a single 60m rope.

Location

Starts around the middle of the southwest face of Apache Arrow. See photos.

Protection

Single rack to 4"
optional 5" piece
Giselle F
  5.10-
Giselle F  
  5.10-
First two pitches are a MUST DO and so rad. Enjoy! May 11, 2017