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Routes in Church Chimney

"Old" Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 R
Other Side of History, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roy Suggett & Trevor Bowman. FFA Trevor Bowman & Roy Suggett
Page Views: 350 total · 26/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on May 8, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

Pitch I: Ninety feet. The first pitch has its crux at the beginning of the obvious finger crack halfway up. There were death blocks above that I did not want to be desperately flailing on as I was sure the lower crack would be pumpy. So I aided. Goes about 5.7 C1 and you will want #1s X 4 and #2s X2 for this crack section. Later we cleaned these and the crack goes clean, albeit pumpy and sustained in sandstone, at about 10-. Hand size matters! Most of this is BD # 1 size. Fat fingers are a bummer here.

Wiggle into the gaping maw at the top of this crack where the death blocks once resided. Clip a runner to the shuts here and then walk the ramp with one hand on the sheer face as you move left or north about 25 feet. There is a big flat staging ground here on the shoulder of the Chimney to comfortably belay from and start the second pitch.

Pitch II: Thirty feet. Boulder up some loose blocky material and find some small finger holds to give confidence while making the clip to the only bolt on the route. Stretch here and reach whatever sketchy edge you can find and then throw a left foot far left to mantle this bulge of cap rock. The rest is class 4 capstone to the broad summit. This place is big enough to have a picnic and take a walk. We did take a long walk around the periphery as well as across the interior in search of expected anchors and/or cairns and other tell-tale signs. We found zero evidence (to our great surprise and delight) of any previous summit party. Looking down the "The Old Chimney" route on the southeast side we also saw no hardware, tat, scars, or any other sign that "they" got past their last drilled pin (see photo of this on the cover page of The Old Chimney). It seems unlikely they could have pulled rope given the broad summit and its jagged surface IF they simo-rapped. So...until otherwise informed, we will take credit for the FA of this dominant feature that can be seen from HW 89.

Look for our cairn and the register hidden underneath.

Location [Suggest Change]

This line is on the northwest side of The Church Chimney and starts in the obvious crack system there (See Topo Picture).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Passive: Bring a set of tricams

Active: Red C-3s, and/or other small cams X 3, BD .3 X 1, .4 X 1, .5 X 1, .75 X 1, 1s X 4, 2s X 2, and one 3.

Runners: Bring a lot of these!

QDs: Just one.

Rope: One 60m will suffice. A 70 might be better

Anchors: There are shuts above the crack on P I.
There is a two bolt anchor on top with cordage and rings. Rap from here to the ramp. Walk right to the shuts and rap again.

Photos

Roy Suggett  
 
This line is far better than anything else nearby and is on fairly good sandstone. Well worth the walk in. The views from the top are noteworthy! May 8, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
US old timers were a pretty crafty bunch Roy. If there's a drilled pin in the chimney I am sure it was summitted. Semantics mainly. Congrats on your new route old chap! May 9, 2017
Roy Suggett  
 
I am willing to concede your point...but ALL evidence (as of yet) to the contrary. May 14, 2017

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