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Crazies
5.7+,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 5
votes
FA: Ed Beacham, 1972
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (w) The Marsupials
> Koala Rock
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
A long meandering flake that overhangs a slab with thin features. Crack starts fist size and grows to off width by the top. Liebacks and full body jams to rest.
Although rated at 5.7 by Watts, feels significantly more difficult than routes with similar features and ratings such as Sky Chimney or Spiderman.
Location
Base of Koala rock, just left of Buffalo Power. Shares the same start as Round Here. Left of two parallel cracks.
After topping out, continue up and right over 4th class terrain to a two-bolt anchor. You may wish to extend the belay back down to the top of the route if you're bringing up a second. Otherwise, rappel South Gully on the opposite side.
Protection
Takes large gear to 5-6", but a couple of #4 C4s can help. 1/4" bolt on flake indicated in Watts topo has been chopped. Bolted anchors.
cascades
Seattle, WA