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Crazies

5.7+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes
FA: Ed Beacham, 1972
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Koala Rock
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Description

A long meandering flake that overhangs a slab with thin features. Crack starts fist size and grows to off width by the top. Liebacks and full body jams to rest.

Although rated at 5.7 by Watts, feels significantly more difficult than routes with similar features and ratings such as Sky Chimney or Spiderman.

Location

Base of Koala rock, just left of Buffalo Power. Shares the same start as Round Here. Left of two parallel cracks.

After topping out, continue up and right over 4th class terrain to a two-bolt anchor. You may wish to extend the belay back down to the top of the route if you're bringing up a second. Otherwise, rappel South Gully on the opposite side.

Protection

Takes large gear to 5-6", but a couple of #4 C4s can help. 1/4" bolt on flake indicated in Watts topo has been chopped. Bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crazies, the left of two parallel cracks
[Hide Photo] Crazies, the left of two parallel cracks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke L
cascades
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Currently there's a stuck hex near the top of the route. May 7, 2017
Amelia Barr
Seattle, WA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] The name is fitting. Accidentally climbed this route instead of the start to Thin Air... brought gear to 3" but that was way run out and it would definitely like bigger gear. Leader popped off a fist sized foothold--wear a helmet!! Feb 19, 2020