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Routes in Joe's Rock

Broadway Joe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cool Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Nine Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's All Buckets TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's a Bargin TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Larry Joe Bird T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mother Superior TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nine to Five (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
No Bargin TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sister of Mercy TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokey Joe's Cafe TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total, 16/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on May 7, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

Start at the first (slightly) overhanging section from the right side of the cliff (approaching from the access trail). Pull through the small roof (about 10' off the ground) or stay to the right. Move to the left-slanting crack that leads to a bulge. Stay left of this bulge, and follow the left-diagonaling (slight) overhang. There is a deceptive crack underneath this overhang that seems promising (when observed from the ground), but offers little protection. The last 10' before the ring anchors is the crux; this is when the gear gets a bit thin. Make a reachy move to a round, baseball-sized hold at the very top.

This route starts right of the double-trunk tree, and finishes to the left (at two ring anchors used for Five Nine Crack).

Location

It is about 15' right of the obvious, left-slanting crack ("Five-Nine Crack"). The start is the first (slightly) overhanging cliff section that is approached from the access trail.

Protection

Nuts and cams up to 2". Alpine draws are useful to prevent rope drag. Top rope is not a good option since the route traverses a bit left; a big swing will slam you into the double-trunk tree the parallels the cliff face.

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