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Routes in Lower Tokopah Dome

Beauty and the Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Boardwalk Chimney, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mango Lassi Lulz Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tokopah Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R
Tokopah Reality T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Wallmart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Hans Kegler
Page Views: 382 total, 51/month
Shared By: Hans Kegler on May 6, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Tokopah Adventure

Still working on cleaning up the route Info. The first known? established route on Tokopah Dome was back in August 1992 by solo climber adventurer Hans Kegler. This is in no way a sport route more in the lines of alpine climbing. First ascent approach was straight up from the valley floor below two times so I would have long slings. This is I believe the easiest way up the face of the dome but one needs to have a cool head on for the route has a long lead out on pitch two. After drilling the step up bolt I soon realized it would be best to have long narrow slings for horns so I would drill the least amount of bolts for a route during my exploratory trip to learn more about this amazing dome of beautiful rock. To say the least I was thrilled I climbed the face of the dome with only one bolt. Easy first pitch up a blocky crack up to the first ledge. The first pitch is next to the huge steep slab wall that is on the right. Next walk across left to the end of the ledge to a high bolt. This is the Step up bolt AO do a delicate move off bolt and face climb to horns above left. The climbing crux and protecting crux is the short head wall above the step up bolt then it's easier climbing the rest of the way. Haven't been their since but if you like advisable to clip if near by the first bolt placed by the climbing party of Beauty and the Beast route. Next about a thirty five plus foot traverse left with a slug horn shortly after the short head wall then easier climbing left and up a bit then two slug horns before climbing down into the water chute. Avoid climbing to high or you will have to wander back down to sling the two horns for protection before climbing into the water chute. A steep short section of smearing 5.9 then run it all the way out to the top. Seemed like a seventy plus foot run out but mostly on progressively easier rock with good stances. Avoid the tempting just out of reach horn for protection high right on chute just before the top of pitch two. Small Cams for belay at top of pitch two and all the other belays other than the( top? don't remember). Next after the water chute pitch make your way over smearing but mostly walk to The X Crack by way of the top ledge. Climb the few horns 5.9 of the X Crack (X Crack can take cams for protection) then the head wall becomes easier with many horns just follow them up slightly to the left. Set up a belay on ever smaller horns just before the top - not for the faint of heart but not that bad, or use the ones that look larger just as the rock rounds out at the top. view photo. Maybe a party can make it all the way up further in one long rope length and find protection higher but I would not count on it. As I remember the summit is beautiful one of the best I've been on in the afternoon.
Hans Kegler
Thousand Oaks
Hans Kegler   Thousand Oaks
Thanks Sir Toby and Limpingcrab. Climbing to the end of the first Ledge the obvious easiest way up the face of dome and finding no gear was a unique feeling in knowing I was going to be the first one up. Glad I helped you guys with a step up! May 19, 2017
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Holy crap! We figured that was a bail bolt because there was nothing above it all the way to the big ledge. Bravo, and sorry that the first two pitches of Beauty and the Beast are now kind of a squeeze job. Thanks for sharing! May 12, 2017
It is awesome you added this route! We were wondering where did that bolt come from and where did the people (person!) climb. :) Beautiful dome!!! May 12, 2017