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Routes in East Slate Rock

Amputation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Slate Than Never T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockader's Glory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clawhammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Slate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dibs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Eye Candy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Term Pachyderm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Handrail, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Knobby Knubs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lanier Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Learning Curve T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Crackalacky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slate Night Booty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slater Alligator S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slither and Flap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sly Mackaye T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slybrows (Nick's Groove) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Mike Reardon
Page Views: 82 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nick Colquitt on May 6, 2017
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

-Fun sustained route with several 5.11 cruxes, cool features and lots of variety.
-Scramble up the skirt slab. Place gear once the wall gets steep, move up and left for more gear to keep you off the ledge while making the move out right to the obvious ramping "handrail" feature.
-Traverse right on the horizontal to a bolt. SLING IT LONG before smearing up and left on a gaston/layback feature, moving into a pod.
-Get out of the pod and step an exfoliating crimpy face with bolts until you reach a ledge with a #2 placement.
-Muster your slab magic and trust heady smears past the last 2 bolts for the final 5.11 crux
-Place gear and make gradually easier slab moves up to the ring anchors.

single 70m gets you down to the base, 60m gets you to the skirt slab(with stretch) where you can walk off.

Location

Centrally located on the "tall wall" just to the right of a 200' lazer straight white groove (aka: "better slate than never").

Protection

lots of 2' runners, standard NC rack. Offsets in .5/.75 are bomber in the handrail and allow for more placements but standard cams can work fine there too. Watch out to avoid rope drag on the lower half!

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