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Routes in Sergio

Blobby Left S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blobby Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Orange S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diez anos de Mc. Claud S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Edge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
For Fite S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Los Zapatos Rojos Bonitos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yo y me resaca S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: "Tomo" Thompson, Eric Bluemn, 4/2017
Page Views: 110 total, 16/month
Shared By: Eric Bluemn on May 5, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This is a fun route with some thoughtful climbing (especially on pitch 2) that leads to the top of the ridgeline.

Pitch 1: Follow the gully up through moderate climbing and around some greenery. Belay at a bolt/ threaded pocket belay (5.5)
Pitch 2: Continue up easy ground from the belay until a steeper wall appears on your left. Access the steeper wall and climb directly up on fragile flakes (small cams) to a pocket you can thread. From the thread, trend up and left (flaring pockets, sparse pro) until you can move back right into a well protected left facing corner. Follow the corner to the top of the wall, then traverse right to a tree belay (5.9+ PG13).
Pitch 3: Continue up on slabs until you reach an old pin belay station beneath the start of the ridgeline that leads to the top. There will be a short slab/crack located up and right. (5.6)
Pitch 4: Climb the crack and slab to reach the ridgeline. Continue up the ridge on easy rambling climbing (some loose rock) until you can belay below the final headwall. (5.6)
Pitch 5: Climb the crack directly up the headwall and belay on top (short pitch, 5.7)

Descent: From the top of the route, traverse the ridgeline left to a notch where it is possible to make a 15-foot down climb to terra firma.

Location

Locate the gully in-between the Steps and sector Sergio (right of rock the Kashbah). There is a bolt line to the left of the gully where someone has placed a toy spiderman in a bush at the top of the route.

Protection

Trad rack nuts/small cams - #2. Doubles in small-mid range cams. Brought a #3 camelot but probably not necessary. Multiple long slings for wandering pitches and threads.

Photos

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