Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Tom Dickey, 1/2004?, 1st bolted lead - Mike Lewis, 5/3/2017?
Page Views: 404 total · 21/month
Shared By: Mike A. Lewis on May 3, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Lead Only Area Details

Description

The crux of this route is at the very top, pulling through the last bulge. This route will get better and better over time as the lichen and small grains are cleaned off. Unfortunately, the anchors are over the edge at the top, which creates horrible friction for toproping. We considered putting the anchors right at the edge, but then clipping the anchor would have been the crux and it would have ended the flow of the climbing abruptly. So - if you are going to toprope, consider bringing a cordellette up with you and extending the anchor over the edge.

Location

Start by laybacking a short flake. The first bolt is beside the flake on the right. Continue up small bulges to the final bulge that finishes through a small groove of sorts. This route is left of the orange lichen streak.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 anchor bolts/chains.

Photos

Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
Actually a pretty damn fun route considering what one may expect climbing at this area. Clips aren't that bad ether, felt like I could get them all easily. Impressed! May 11, 2017