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Magic Ear Muffs

5.4, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 20 votes
FA: Leo Paik, 2003?, 1st bolted lead - Mike Lewis 5/1/2017
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Performance Cli… > Amphitheater Wall
Access Issue: Lead Only Area Details

Description

The crux is getting off the ground. The holds on this route are wonderful - lots of little flakes and jugs. It is a great beginner's route!

Location

This route is in the middle of the Amphitheater Wall. It begins off the large, blocky, quartz handholds. The anchors are hanging on the underside of the leaning roof.

Protection

3 bolts and 2 anchor bolts/chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Lewis on the first bolted ascent and at the anchors on Magic Ear Muffs.
[Hide Photo] Mike Lewis on the first bolted ascent and at the anchors on Magic Ear Muffs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] In the last decade and a half, we used to do this to the roof for little ones and going above the roof at 5.6 for those with normalish reaches (4'8" and above). You could probably do this with a cam to protect the roof move and get to the anchor of Exit Stage Left. Rope drag and abrasion may make this a climb and belay from above option. May 17, 2017