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Routes in Xochipili Headwall

Ana S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Poder Blanco T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El Techo de Limites T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unknown (Alternate Finish) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unknown (Finger Crack Start) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Girdle Traverse) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Xochipili S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on May 2, 2017
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This is an old route which serves as an alternate finish to El Techo de Limites. It has some interesting climbing as well.

Start by climbing up El Techo de Limites, passing its first crux on suspect gear (5.10c PG13) then stepping left to a small stance. Place a couple medium sized cams then head straight up the face passing an old piton until you reach a ledge. Scramble up into a blocky corner, then do a short traverse left and climb to the top of the arete. Build an anchor and belay up your second from there.

DESCENT: Scramble down to the top anchors of Xochipili and rappel from there.

Location

This route starts from the far right end of the Xochipili Headwall.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot (doubles on the finger sizes and smaller), nuts and/or RP's and a few long slings.

Photos

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