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Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: E. Wisheropp
Page Views: 159 total · 18/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on May 1, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A short route on the Merrimac to serve as a good warm up for the longer routes nearby, or a good second route if you drove all the way out there for just Without A Net and are hoping to do an extra pitch. It got the name because I climbed it one day hoping to find an anchor hidden somewhere up there. Not finding one, I down climbed the pitch. The route was good fun, hypothetically. A week later we decided it was worth doing again and added an anchor, 4.75" SS Five-piece.

Good hands lead to a funky chimney entrance. Walk a #6 as high as you can as you move up the chimney. Place a #5 and pull out into the layback, or offwidth if you want to practice calf locks out a roof.

Location

100 yards left of Without A Net on a north facing wall.

Protection

3-6", two #5s

Photos

smassey
CO
smassey   CO
powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/…
Said individual should consult the section on edge distance. And take into consideration that Entrada does not equate to 2000 psi concrete. Though the equations may be a little challenging. Maybe a crayon drawing would help. Nov 28, 2017
rkrum
Colorado or somewhere else
rkrum   Colorado or somewhere else
Yeah, I really don't get it. Full disclosure, I did not climb the route with the anchor in the new location. However, I did stare at it, thoroughly confused, while rapping The Maelstrom multiple times over a few days. It seemed pretty obvious to me that it is in a miserable spot.

Whoever did this, please don't continue to take it upon yourself to "improve" routes. Oct 30, 2017
Whaaat?? That makes no sense... Oct 26, 2017
rkrum
Colorado or somewhere else
rkrum   Colorado or somewhere else
It is on the pillar itself, on a weird mini "ledge" up and left from the crack about a body length or so. Rope runs over the rock on TR as well as when you pull the rope. Didn't climb it with the new anchor but it seems to be in a worse spot in every possible way.

Oh and one of the bolts appeared to be only maybe a few inches from the edge of the rock, which of course is minimally varnished entrada.. Oct 26, 2017
Odd, I'm curious where it is now...? Oct 21, 2017
rkrum
Colorado or somewhere else
rkrum   Colorado or somewhere else
I would be curious to know what the thought process was when someone took it upon themselves to replace/relocate the anchor on this route. The new placement is, well, suboptimal at best. The old location seemed to work just fine. Oct 21, 2017