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Routes in The Gulag

Russian Roulette S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Whipper Snapper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total, 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Apr 30, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep technical burlfest climbing out of a cave for the first 1/3 followed by alternating vertical, bulges, semi-slab, more overhanging, a full body rest ledge, and a pretty cool mantle finish. The name I'm guessing is alluding to how discovering which foot holds are going to blow is like playing a game of Russian Roulette. The two main cruxes come in the upper half of the cave. I might recommend clipping the bolts in the cave with slings to keep the rope running free from rubbing too hard on the not-so-smooth rock at the lip of the cave.

Parts of the cave were wet, but would likely be better later in the season. A note on the grade, pg. 40 of the Bigfoot guide lists it as 13c and pg. 42 lists it as 13b. Whatever the grade, it's an incredible route and quite a bit of work, it should only clean up with more traffic.

Location

The drawing in the Bigfoot Guide is a little misleading, the route is much farther left than it would lead you to believe. Keep boulder hopping north along the wall until you are down on solid dirt among the trees.

Protection

14 bolts

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